We are enjoying the Italian portion of our vacation with most of our time concentrated in Umbria. This region is known for vineyards, olive groves, and amazingly well preserved, ancient hilltop villages, including Assisi, Spoleto, and Spello, just to name a few.
Bevagna was one of the villages on our must see list. Once a thriving municipality of Rome, the main road through town, Flaminia, was part of the 300 km thoroughfare that lead from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. Legend has it that Saint Francis gave his famous sermon to the birds near here.
History tells us that there was a settlement here beginning around 85 BC, and within a few centuries, it was a busy, prosperous town. Today it is a much quieter place to visit, even in the height of the tourist season. This ancient walled town with a population of just 5,000 residents has much to offer the historian, shopper, foodie, photographer, or artist in your group.
After passing through the city gate and wandering along the cobbled streets, you’ll find yourself in a large, open square – Piazza Filippo Silvestri, where there are some outdoor cafes amidst the Gothic buildings. Here you’ll find the 11th century church San Michele Arcangelo.
Unfortunately, it wasn’t open on the day we visited, but just on the other side of the square we found the Church of San Silvestro, an 11th century Romanesque style church open to the public. The interior of this church is simple, with no frills, but still interesting.
Bevagna is considered one of the 100 most beautiful ancient villages in Italy, a recognition given by Touring Club Italiano for excellence in hospitality and tourism. It was also given the Gem of Italy award for its inviting alleys and monuments, thus making it a tempting place for the artist and photographer.
One of the highlights of our time in Bevagna was an amazing meal at le Barbatelle Wine Bar, owned by an expatriated woman from the US, who has lived in Italy for 17 years. Her wine bar is absolutely inviting with amazingly delicious and creative dishes prepared in her small kitchen
Here we had cauliflower croquettes with roasted pepper cream; braised artichokes with wild mint, parsley, and garlic; soft salami with marinated monk’s beard greens; ricotta stuffed zucchini/courgette flowers; and agnolotti pasta stuffed with mushrooms and ricotta, served with Umbrian venison ragù; yes, I actually enjoyed a few small bites of the venison. Everything was absolutely delicious.
We rented a vacation apartment in Perugia, which is a perfect location for exploring the villages. I do recommend a rental car for visiting this area to the fullest; however, the drivers here are very aggressive. When we would pull out to pass a slower car, if we didn’t pass fast enough drivers would tailgate, honk, and flash their lights at us. At one point even a police car tailgated and honked at us as we were passing a semi-truck! So, if you rent a car in Italy, be prepared to deal with very aggressive drivers.
What do you think of Bevagna? This quintessential village is a little off the beaten path but an absolute joy to visit. As always, I would love to hear from you so feel free to leave a comment.
Wishing you grand adventures,
Tricia
It all looks so lovely, the painting and the photos. I went to Assisi as a boy and remember it so clearly.
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Thank you Ian. Assisi is certainly a memorable place. We visited multiple times while in Umbria. I’ll be writing about it in the weeks to come.
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I love Umbria and have spent a lot of time there over a number of years (although not recently). Your photos are beautiful and yes, the food is so delicious. Agreed – aggressive driving is expected in Italy.
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Thank you Lynette. We love Umbria as well, it’s much more relaxed than Tuscany, which is also beautiful. We will be glad to turn in the rental car in a few days!
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I love the brick archways, Tricia, and the inviting cobbles that lead off into the distance. It looks wonderfully peaceful and dreamy.
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I love those too and took so many photos of them. Umbria is a beautiful place. Thanks Jo!
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🤗💙
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Wow, great pics and sketches. One thing is for sure, I would never take umbrage with Umbria. Beautiful.
Dave
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Ha; good one Dave! Thank you!
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I don’t think you can do much cuter than Bevagna. The arches over the walkways are wonderful. It looks magical. Maggie
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It certainly is a charming place with so much to offer. Thanks Maggie!
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Such beautiful photos and sketches. Exploring traditional Umbrian hillside towns looks like a fantastic adventure and a great combination of the cerebral and the sensual, from a plethora of art and architecture to excellent regional food and wine and the simple pleasures of wandering around medieval streets. Thanks for sharing, and safe travels. Aiva xx
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You have summed up Umbria perfectly Aiva! It truly is all those things. Thank you for your kind words!
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I’ve heard of Umbria, but I never got around to visiting that part of Italy. Looks absolutely gorgeous– very rustic and seemingly not as crazy-packed with tourists as the big shots like Rome, Venice, or Florence. Glad you enjoyed Umbria and its lovely countryside!
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Yes, it’s every bit as beautiful and inviting but not as intense as some of Italy’s heavy hitters. We’re enjoying every minute. Thanks Rebecca!
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Wishing you all the best for your holiday in my home country!
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Thank you! Italy is lovely.
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Wow, looking through these images and there is perhaps a case that Umbria is Italy’s Cumbria (in England). Or maybe I just like the rhyme. Seriously though this atmospheric hilltop village looks absolutely magical, right up our street. I can see myself settling into a cafe on the square. Love the churches too (we are often annoyed by how many gorgeous old churches always seem to be closed) and the food… the food… the food. Great article Tricia, you have us both pining for Italy.
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Thanks so much Leighton; Italy is completely magical. Particularly when you can escape the crowds in the quiet villages. But yes, the churches need to be open! I like the rhyme, but I haven’t had the pleasure of visiting Cumbria. 😉 Someday soon. Thanks for your comments!
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How do you manage to find the most perfect and unique places to eat…?! That a truly beautiful place. And you’re quite right–it definitely is a perfect spot for photographer or artist; both yours and the Travelsketcher’s postings are proof of that. After this recent trip it’s going to be hard for you to decide what places you loved the most. Thanks for sharing! (And thanks for the tip; no way would I drive in that area!!!)
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Isn’t it though? There are so many beautiful villages in that area. One could spend many months there and not see them all. Thanks so much Shirley!
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Oh how lovely. These streets were just made for wandering and taking pictures because it is all so beautiful
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Yes; it’s a perfect place for wandering. Thanks Meg!
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I can see why Bevagna was on your must see list while in Umbria. There’s something nice to be said about these smaller ancient villages. Looks charming and peaceful.
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It certainly is a relaxing place that doesn’t draw the massive crowds like some of the other villages. Thanks for commenting!
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Gah, it’s just so beautiful. I love all your photos, and theTravelsketcher’s sketches are brilliant. The food as well – droooool.
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Isn’t it though? Miles and miles of vineyards and olive groves, beautiful scenery and great food. And yes, droool!! Thanks Hannah!
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Oh my! Those narrow cobbled streets are lovely — imagine if the age-old walls could talk. I love your doors, the food (oh the food) and it’s always nice to see a picture of a cat in your posts. Like Hannah, I also love theTravelsketcher’s sketches. We like off the beaten path destinations – thank you for showing this to us through your beautiful photos.
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Thanks so much Corna! We were blown away by the villages in Umbria; they’re all so amazingly welcoming and spectacular. Thanks again for stopping by!
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What a stunning village. And it looked empty! As you said, no tourists… Wow, that’s unusual. When you wrote it has only 5,000 residents, I thought of the ancient Italian villages that are up for sale, lock stock and barrel. But this one looks beautifully cared for, and your images of shops and food make it look a bit chic. Thank you for sharing this, and adding another destination to my “must see” list.
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Isn’t it though? I hope you get a chance to visit Umbria someday, it’s a beautiful place. Thanks Lisa!
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