Umbria, Italy

We are enjoying the Italian portion of our vacation with most of our time concentrated in Umbria. This region is known for vineyards, olive groves, and amazingly well preserved, ancient hilltop villages, including Assisi, Spoleto, and Spello, just to name a few.

Bevagna was one of the villages on our must see list. Once a thriving municipality of Rome, the main road through town, Flaminia, was part of the 300 km thoroughfare that lead from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. Legend has it that Saint Francis gave his famous sermon to the birds near here.

History tells us that there was a settlement here beginning around 85 BC, and within a few centuries, it was a busy, prosperous town. Today it is a much quieter place to visit, even in the height of the tourist season. This ancient walled town with a population of just 5,000 residents has much to offer the historian, shopper, foodie, photographer, or artist in your group.

After passing through the city gate and wandering along the cobbled streets, you’ll find yourself in a large, open square – Piazza Filippo Silvestri, where there are some outdoor cafes amidst the Gothic buildings. Here you’ll find the 11th century church San Michele Arcangelo.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t open on the day we visited, but just on the other side of the square we found the Church of San Silvestro, an 11th century Romanesque style church open to the public. The interior of this church is simple, with no frills, but still interesting.

Bevagna is considered one of the 100 most beautiful ancient villages in Italy, a recognition given by Touring Club Italiano for excellence in hospitality and tourism. It was also given the Gem of Italy award for its inviting alleys and monuments, thus making it a tempting place for the artist and photographer.

One of the highlights of our time in Bevagna was an amazing meal at le Barbatelle Wine Bar, owned by an expatriated woman from the US, who has lived in Italy for 17 years. Her wine bar is absolutely inviting with amazingly delicious and creative dishes prepared in her small kitchen

Here we had cauliflower croquettes with roasted pepper cream; braised artichokes with wild mint, parsley, and garlic; soft salami with marinated monk’s beard greens; ricotta stuffed zucchini/courgette flowers; and agnolotti pasta stuffed with mushrooms and ricotta, served with Umbrian venison ragù; yes, I actually enjoyed a few small bites of the venison. Everything was absolutely delicious.

We rented a vacation apartment in Perugia, which is a perfect location for exploring the villages. I do recommend a rental car for visiting this area to the fullest; however, the drivers here are very aggressive. When we would pull out to pass a slower car, if we didn’t pass fast enough drivers would tailgate, honk, and flash their lights at us. At one point even a police car tailgated and honked at us as we were passing a semi-truck! So, if you rent a car in Italy, be prepared to deal with very aggressive drivers.

What do you think of Bevagna? This quintessential village is a little off the beaten path but an absolute joy to visit. As always, I would love to hear from you so feel free to leave a comment.

Wishing you grand adventures,

Tricia